All that studying paid off! Major goal of career break accomplished! Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

This past week while on the road, I got some great news.  In November, I took a Spanish fluency exam given through the Spanish government.  It’s called the DELE (Diploma Español como Lengua Extranjera).  My goal during 2007 was not only to learn to speak Spanish fluently, but to pass this exam.  There are 3 levels: Basic, Intermediate and Superior.  I went for the gusto and took the Superior level.  And, I passed.  The pass rate is about 60-65%.  So, I felt great about this.  And, even though I felt I had done my best and thought that even if I didn’t pass, it wouldn’t matter, it did feel good to know that I now have this accreditation behind me.  So, when I go back to BA next week, I’ll be stopping by my language institute to celebrate with my professors and staff.  ¡Dále!

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Originally Published March 8, 2008

Passed! is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Typical housing in Castro on Chiloe. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Saturday, March 1, around noon I headed off to the pier to catch my ferry from Chaitén to Quellón on the island of Chiloé.  I had a final conversation with the family who owned  the home where I was staying.  We talked about Chilean life in southern Chile and how different it was to that in urban Santiago.  I also found out that a large international environmental group was meeting down in Coyhaique and many stars would be or were already were in the area – not that I saw Julia Roberts, Leonardo DiCaprio, Cameron Diaz or Robert F Kennedy.  But, I was apparently close.

The weather had been quite bad the previous couple of days with large thunderstorms rolling through the area.  Today was different – sunny and bright, perfect for making a ferry crossing.  Leaving Chaitén, I went to the back of the ferry and marveled at the large mountains that envelop the town. To the south, I saw a large volcano which I had not previously noticed.  Even though there wasn’t much to do in Chaitén itself, I thought (now that I was leaving) how good of a thing that was hoping that the town stayed pristine and remote.

They really are on stilts...over water. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We arrived to Quellón around 7PM after an almost 6 hour journey to the southern port town.  I had spent most of the time reading on the boat, but did strike up a conversation with one of the crew members talking about US politics, fishing rights in Chile and life on the boat.  I left the boat and headed straight for the bus station to get my ticket to Castro, in the middle of Chiloé.  There I was to meet my friends from Santiago, Ale and Paul.  The only option was the local bus – there was no express. So, what should’ve taken an hour, took 3.  I dropped my stuff at the hostel and found Ale and Paul in a restaurant waiting patiently for me to arrive.  We had a great meal of Pisco Sours, steak and wine.  There was an 80s party in town and when we showed up, we were surrounded by a mob of 18-20 year-olds. So, we decided to call it a night.

On Sunday, we got up lazily and walked around town.  We took a small boat ride around the fjord the runs through town.  At 2:30, we boarded a bus and headed for the national park where we would spend the next couple of days exploring.

Some of the flora from the hike. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Ale found a place in her Lonely Planet guide for us to stay.  It had a camping area where they stayed and a hostel option for me since I let Matt take the tent we used down in southern Patagonia.  It was called “Paraiso” or Paradise; it was anything but.  The site was just outside the national park so we headed in to take advantage of the remaining sunlight.  Just before leaving, Ale and Paul asked me to take a bag of theirs in the house with me since it had valuables so I could lock it in my room inside.  I also grabbed our food.  The owner, an old spinster who clearly had been isolated in the country too long, asked me who’s stuff I was carrying.  Why she cared, I have no idea.  So I told her that the food was for all of us and that the bag was mine (well, it was at a minimum, in my hand).  I knew right then this could be a long night.

The park had a few footpaths that all seemed to be at least 25kms or more in length. So, we did our best and then found a small path that led to the beach where we went to watch the sunset.  The beach was empty, windswept and stretched for kilometers to the north and south.  There were only a couple of footprints from the day and a couple of tire tracks from daytrippers.  We headed back so we could get back to the main road before the light completely left for the day.

Footprints on the beach. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We got back to the lodging site and started cooking our dinner.  It was about 9PM.  The owner lady told that she thought it was a little late to be cooking dinner.  I was irked not knowing why she would care.  But, I smiled and said that we had been out enjoying the beautiful scenery and the amazing sunset.  I went on and on about how amazing it was, really laying it on thick.  She shut up.  There wasn’t much light out so we had to cook by starlight.  We tried to turn on the lights inside the outside bathrooms, but the owner went nuts when she saw that and turned them off immediately.  We were talking fairly softly which in retrospect seems a little ridiculous since there wasn’t anyone around us.  Then again, maybe it was because we had been talking about our surly hostess.  She came out at one point asking who was shouting.  Without breaking a beat, Ale said, “Oh, it’s coming from over there”, pointing in some non-specific direction.  We heard nothing and we had been quiet.  But, the answer seemed to satisfy the woman.  We finally finished up dinner, cleaned up and went off to bed.

I awoke to the same attitude from the owner as the night before. I went to the dining room hoping to find coffee waiting. There was none.  The owner said that there wasn’t hot water for coffee yet so I asked if she could turn on the gas so I could take a shower. She also intermittently started asking me if I was leaving and if I could move my stuff out of the room – it was all of 8:30AM.  After the shower and breakfast and several more times telling me to move my stuff out of my room, I responded with a cold and direct, “I hear you. When I’m ready, I’ll move it.”  I wasn’t asked again.

We finally headed out to the national park to spend the day before I was to head back to Castro for the evening.  Ale and Paul had enough of “Paraiso” and took their stuff to the national park to camp where we had seen how nice the facilities were the day before.  The park staff couldn’t have been more helpful and accommodating.  It was a welcome change from where we had come from.  Señora Paraiso seriously needed more to occupy her time.

Sunset on Chiloe. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

At 4:30, I said a sad farewell to my friends and headed back to Castro.  The next morning I got up early and took the 7 hour bus ride to Valdivia, near the lakes district of Patagonia.  The ride in was beautiful with tall trees lining the roadside.  I found a great little hostel near the bus station and got settled in.  It was too late to do anything so I headed into town to get acquainted.  I decided that I would rent a car the next morning and then return each night to Valdivia.

So, I got up on Wednesday morning and felt lazy.  Mentally I was checking out and all of a sudden felt a great need to get back to Santiago – not that I had anything important to do there.  I was just road weary and ready to end the tour.  So, I took the day walking around town, had a nice lunch, saw a movie and kicked back.  I also changed my bus ticket from a Friday to a Thursday departure.

It has been an amazing trip…definitely one of the highlights in a year filled with many highlights.  I saw amazing natural sites, met amazing people – both travelers and Chileans – and had some new experiences like trekking.  As the time wound down, my mind started drifting to what’s next.  I have a short 2 weeks back in Buenos Aires to meet some American friends of mine who are coming down.  I’ll be then heading off to Colombia. I’m not sure what I’ll find there, but I have fallen in love with the idea of Colombia based on meeting Colombians, talking to others from around South America and travelers who have been.  For now, I am heading back to Santiago happy with my latest trip and ready to head into the next adventure.

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Originally Published March 6, 2008

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Wrapping Up Patagonia in Chiloé and Valdivia is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

I'm a truck drivin' man. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Monday morning after saying a quick goodbye to Matt, I went into town to have a quick breakfast and find a car to drive.  I quickly hit a roadblock as all the agencies seemed to be out of cars.  Furthermore, the prices were even more outlandish than I had originally heard.  I started doubting my plan and my resolve to drive the carretera.  So, I went to have a coffee and think about my plans.  I finally decided to bite the bullet and pay the exorbitant costs.  After all, driving through Patagonia is a once in a lifetime opportunity.  The terrain is magical and I love the mountains.  I ultimately decided that I would regret NOT doing it and taking a bus up to Chaitén, my stopping point.

I went to 5 or 6 agencies with no success. My final hope was Budget Rent a Car.  After my enquiry, they confirmed that they had a truck available.  I closed my eyes to the cost so as not to cause myself any more pain.  They needed about 2 hours to prep the truck so I headed into town to buy supplies for the road.  By 2PM, I was off to explore.

Mountain lakes everywhere. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

The first day, I headed south a bit to explore a small lakes region.  Once I left the main road, I hit the ripio roads, or dirt roads.  I first headed out to Lago La Paloma where I had a quick lunch.  I then headed up past Lago Elizalde and Lago Atravesado.  All of these were to the southwest of Coyhaique.  I crossed the the southeast side passing by Lago Pollux and Castor.  The scenery was more beautiful on this side.  On the other side, the terrain was mostly flat filled with many farms.  While the east side had its farming side too, there were many more trees and foothills.  I got some great photos of the area.  The sun started to set and my visibility decreased so I decided to head back to Coyhaique for the night.  I wanted to head on a little further, but was afraid of arriving too late to find a place to sleep for the night.  I did have my sleeping bag as a backup in case I needed to sleep in the truck, but I preferred a regular bed.  Plus, I could get a nice cup of coffee in town in the morning before leaving.

The road can get a little bumpy at times as the sign indicates. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I got up Tuesday morning and headed out for a quick breakfast.  Around 11, I got on the road and headed north.  My destination for the day was Puyuhaupi, described as a picturesque mountain town.  There was a small route past Lago Castor that would take me north along the Argentinean border.  Given the scenery I had seen last night, it looked to be the ideal place to go.  I made a wrong turn and wound up at the border near Lago Castor.  I backtracked and headed through Coyhaique Alto, a military border post.  So far so good.  The landscape changed as I had moved just enough east to where the dry, desolate pampa began.  The road was not well-traveled and I felt good that I had a 4×4 truck.  But, I knew that if I had a flat or an accident, no one would be passing by anytime soon.  It had been a while since I did any real 4x4ing so I enjoyed the challenge.  The road was just difficult enough to keep me alert, but not so bad that I ever felt out of control.  That Land Rover training I had had years ago came in handy.  I came upon a farm in the middle of nowhere with the road blocked off.  I thought I took a wrong turn so I turned around.  With no one outside at the farm, I was not keen to keep going.  Having grown up in Texas, I knew you could get shot for that kind of behavior.  Of course, in Chile, no one has guns, but it was the principle that kept me from going through the gate.  At the checkpoint in Coyhaique Alto, I found out that I indeed was on the right track and could’ve advanced.  But, given the time of day, I thought it best that I go north an alternative, more direct route.

Local birds like these were everywhere. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I passed through Villa Ortega, a small village in the mountains which took me up to Mañihuales.  The roads were remarkably good except for the off-the-beaten path I had taken earlier in the day.  I had heard horror stories about the roads and wondered where they had come from.

Some got around on motorcycle. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Just outside of Villa Amengual, I saw two girls hitchhiking and decided to pick them up.  Hitchhiking in Chile and Argentina is done with greater frequency than in the US and I had heard that there would be plenty of people doing it…even the locals hitch.  They were two Israeli girls going up to Puyuhuapi too.  They had the typical Israeli traveler story: young and recently out of the military, and traveling for a bit before starting university.

The road turned tough and we hit a patch that was being worked on.  At the same time, this stretch turned into the most beautiful so far.  We gained altitude as the day went on.  The vegetation took on a sub-tropical look with plants looking like they belong more in the jungle than in the middle of the Patagonian mountains.  The last 30-40 kilometers were along a sea inlet that led us right to Puyuhuapi.  We stopped off to take several photos.  We passed by the Parque Nacional Quelat and got a couple of shots of the Quelat glacier.  It was all very stunning.

Waterfalls on the side of the road, a common site. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We arrived in Puyuhuapi and I let the girls out to find housing.  Since I had to be in Chaitén the next day by 2 to return the truck, I wanted to find out how long the drive would be.  On the map, it didn’t look very far, but if the road was going to be in the poor condition we had to the south of Puyuhuapi, I was going to budget more time and, perhaps, move on tonight.  I was told that I only needed 3.5 hours to reach Chaitén so I decided to stay in Puyuhuapi.  I had a quick dinner and got off to bed so I could get an early start.

I left Puyuhuapi around 8AM after taking a few pictures of the cute town.  I wished I could’ve had a day here to enjoy the town.  It was definitely a place to enjoy.  But, I was off.  The morning brought with it much fog and I enjoyed the mystical views all around.  As the morning wore on, the fog burned off revealing beautiful forested mountains and lakes all around.  I also saw here much deforestation, something I had seen a little bit along the way, but here it seemed more pronounced.  It was sad to see few efforts to reforest what had been harvested.  I’m sure timber is a big economic driver here, but there I saw little evidence that there was any long-term plan to renew the resources being extracted from the land.

I passed by Lago Yelcho which had more glacier-capped mountains alongside it.  After a few pictures, I moved on and arrived in Chaitén just before noon.

Glacier at Quelat National Park. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

This was one of the more scenic parts of the Patagonia tour for me.  And, despite the cost, I was glad I decided to drive it.  I saw a great variety of forest vegetation, pampa, lakes, glacier-capped and snow-capped mountains, flora, birds, bridges, rivers, and streams.  it was difficult to get here and to know how to navigate it.  After making the trip through it, I was glad that it isn’t easy to get here.  I’m sure that over time, the number of people visiting will increase.  Certainly, as the road improves so too will the travel infrastructure which will result in more visitors.  I can only hope that more people will not result in the destruction of this jewel of nature.

Leaving Chaiten for Chiloe. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Originally Published February 28, 2008

4x4ing the Carretera Austral is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Looking back at Chile Chico from the ferry. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Friday, February 22, we got up, had a quick breakfast at the hostel and headed for the bus company.  We heard that that the bus across to Chile Chico, Chile left just after noon, so we hoped to still be able to get a ticket.  The ideal scenario for the day was cross the border, get on the ferry across Lake General Carrera to Puerto Ibañez and from there get to Coyhaique, Chile, which would serve as our base for the weekend.

Things started off well as we were easily able to get a ticket to Chile Chico. The distance from Perito Moreno isn’t far, but with the stops at the Argentina-Chile border, it took us 3 hours.  We immediately headed for the docks to enquire about tickets across the lake – a 2.5 hour journey that would save us 4 hours if we had to take a bus around.  Again, we were in luck and purchased our ferry ride across.  Now, the last part of our trifecta would be getting a bus on the other side once we landed to Coyhaique.  We were told that this wouldn’t be a problem by the locals, but there’s always that chance that it won’t work out.  We had a nice lunch in Chile Chico and headed off to an internet cafe while we waited to board.

Overlooking Coyhaique from the surrounding mountains. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

At 5:30, our ferry headed across Lake General Carrera, which is shared by Argentina and known on the other side of the border as Lake Buenos Aires.  It was a nice boat ride as we passed over the icy blue lake with mountains and volcanoes to the west.  It reminded me a little of my Navimag ferry ride down to southern Chile a bit.  The sun was out with few clouds in the sky and there was just enough of a cool breeze requiring a light jacket outside, but nothing more.  The ride was also remarkable for the passenger mix.  Most of the people were Chileans, not foreigners.  There were a few of us.  But, after traveling so long on the backpacker circuit, it was nice not to be surrounded by other tourists.  I had a great chat with a grandmother with her granddaughter returning from a visit to Argentina.

The plaza in Coyhaique. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We landed around 8PM in Puerto Ibañez and the buses were literally waiting for us.  Matt and I found one and off we went to Coyhaique.  I couldn’t believe our luck.  We started the day knowing virtually nothing about how to navigate from the Argentinean border to Coyhaique, and yet, here we were  – on our way.

We were dropped off at a hostel that both of our travel books recommended as good and cheap, Hostal Don Santiago.  There was plenty of room so we dropped our stuff and headed into town for a late dinner.

On Saturday, we took the day off to veg out.  I was surprised to see that the town was not crawling with tourists.  This is central stopping point on the southern highway route and I expected massive crowds.  We found out later that the high season is ending for the region so things had slowed down quite a bit.  Also, as we later experienced, the tourist infrastructure wasn’t as developed here as in other areas so it’s a little harder to navigate.  I’m sure that keeps people away too.  I was happy for that.  We found a great gourmet restaurant for dinner dining on grilled emu.  We were the only ones in the restaurant which again seemed surprising.  As we walked through town after dinner, we saw that most restaurants were empty.

One of the lakes around the area. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Sunday, Matt and I went to the local National Park for a hike.  It wasn’t the most beautiful hike I’ve ever done, but it was nice to get out and do some activity.  We had a nice talk with the local rangers afterwards (they had also let us in for the local rate of 800 pesos instead of 2000 pesos, i.e., $1.60 instead of $4.00.  Afterwards, we went back into town for a quick dinner before heading back to the hostel to pack up.

Matt and I decided to split up after tonight.  I wanted to rent a car and drive up the highway.  The cost estimates were significant so Matt decided to move on.  Plus, he had to start heading back home to Cuzco, Peru and needed to allow enough time to get back.  So, Monday morning, Matt headed off to the bus station and I started looking for a rental car.  The trip was changing again and it was time to look forward.

Originally Published February 25, 2008

Getting Started on the Southern Patagonia Highway, aka, “La Carretera Austral” is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

At the Perito Moreno Glacier on coooold day. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Saturday, February 16th, I said goodbye to Puerto Natales and temporarily, Chile.  I boarded the bus for El Calafate, Argentina, site of one of the most impressive glaciers around.  After a more than 6 hour bus ride, I arrived at the bus station to find my friend Matt waiting.  After dumping my bags at the hostel, we headed out for a steak dinner in town.  The town was larger than I expected, very touristy, and upscale.

We awoke to a cold Sunday morning which soon warmed up around noon.  We found a tourist agency that could take us to the Perito Moreno glacier later that day and take us up to El Chaltén, our next stop further north, up Route 40.  At 3, we boarded our bus to head to Los Glaciers National Park, home of the Perito Moreno glacier, among others.

The glacier is impressive. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

From seeing pictures of the glacier, I knew it would be impressive, but being next to it in person was even more awe-inspiring. It is 30km/19mi long and 4.5km/3mi wide. The glacier is moving and still growing.  I was surprised since many of the glaciers I have seen are in retreat from global warming.  As the glacier approaches the land, pieces small and large break off with thunderous sounds hinting at the impending break.  We stood and watched the glacier for about and hour waiting patiently for the next piece to crack and fall.

Loved it when the glacier calved. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Monday, we boarded our early bus for the long bus ride to El Chaltén, Argentina’s youngest town with only 22 years in existence.  It borders a mountain range that includes the stunning Fitz Roy mountain.  It was just as impressive as the mountain range of Torres Del Paine.  The entire town sits in the northern zone of Los Glaciers National Park and before entering, everyone gets an orientation session with the park ranger.

Mount Fitz Roy. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Matt and I found a cheap hostel where we could dump most of our stuff.  We were here to trek and camp so other than a little bit of clothing, food, our tent and sleeping bags, we didn’t need much.  After a quick stop at the grocery store, we headed north on foot to the trailhead leading into the mountains.  The skies were mostly clear but the area was marked by a strong wind coming off the mountains.  After a beautiful 2.5 hour march, we arrived at the Poincenot campsite.  My legs were still good to go, but my back was definitely ready for the stop.  We were prevented from hiking out another hour to see a glacier beyond the camp due to bad weather on the mountains.

Proof I really did the hike. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

That night, it rained and we awoke to cloudy skies and intermittent rain still falling.  Our option for a hike out to mountain lake region was stifled.  So, the only decision became, do we continue on to the next camp site where the skies looked better?  Frustrated by the prospect of having to stay at the same campsite for a second night, we marched on.  The first hour we walked in the rain, but then we walked out of the affected area.  By, the time we reached the De Agostini campsite, the sun was out.  We got our tent up quickly and the rains came again.  We were mostly protected and they passed and did not return.  Near the campsite was a large mountain glacier, whose runoff fed the river nearby.  Out of water and with the recommendation of the park ranger, I went to the river to refill my water bottle with the fresh glacial water.  It was cold and clear with a grayish blue hue signaling the potential for a strong mineral taste.  But, there was none, only the taste of pure water.

This river that sprung from the melting glacier was our water source. It was pretty yummy. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Wednesday morning we awoke to a sunny day.  I went out to take some pictures of the glacier which shined brilliantly on the mountain.  We headed out of the camp toward El Chaltén.  I enjoyed the trip and the camping and was glad that I finally had completed my first true trek.  Granted, it was easy as far as treks go.  But, I didn’t care.  I had wanted to do a trek for a while and with Matt as my trekking sensei, I was prepared and in good hands.  I also felt vindicated for not having trekked the trail in Torres Del Paine.  After getting back to the hostel, we showered, bought a few groceries for dinner.  After dinner we went to bed.  The hostel had 12 people per room situated on 3-stacked high bunks.  The room that night featured a snoring orquestra between 2 snorers and a Belgian woman who sang and yelled in her sleep.  I finally fell asleep and for all I know, I may have joined in the orquestra.

One of the many rivers we came across while hiking. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Thursday, we boarded the bus for the long trip up to our next stop, the town of Perito Moreno (not the glacier).  From there we would be able to cross back into Chile to start up the famed Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway.  On the map, it doesn’t look that far between El Chaltén and Perito Moreno, but with a gravel road most of the way, speed was limited and it was a 12 hour drive – 13 for us since we had to stop to change a blow-out suffered on the road.  The landscape on the east side of the Andes is barren and dry.  It extends all the way to the Atlantic Coast and was almost the same I had seen near Puerto Madryn, except this was even drier with even less vegetation.  One stop was at the Estancia Siberia; I thought it was appropriately named.  Tired and haggard, we checked into our hostel and got some much needed sleep.  The next day we would be crossing back into Chile and with no information yet on how we would do it, we would need the sleep.

Originally Published February 23, 2008

Camping Amongst the Glaciers and Mountains is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Penguin pair sharing a private moment. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Monday, February 11th, we slept in after our long night getting the car back from the Torres Del Paine park.  After over a week on the boat and the trip through the park, we had tons of laundry to do and all just needed a day’s break.  So, we all hung out around Puerto Natales and then went for a final dinner out together.

Seals on the way to Isla Magdelena. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Tuesday morning, we packed up, had a quick breakfast and then said our goodbyes.  Arris and Eva took the car to head on to Ushuaia, Argentina while Zoe, Linda and I got on an early bus to Punta Arenas, Chile.  We arrived a little after noon and walked around to sort out a hostel for the night.  We found one and headed out for a nice lunch of king crab.

Fishin' Time! Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

There were 3 things I wanted to do in Punta Arenas: buy a camera lens at the duty free shopping zone, visit the southernmost continental point of the Americas and take a flight over Cape Horn to “touch” the southernmost part of the Americas.  None of it was meant to be.  The shopping area was large, but lacked more technical camera equipment. The flight to Cape Horn was $6000 which would have been a bargain if I could’ve found 20 people to split the cost with.  And, the only tours to the southernmost tip were on Sundays; without direct access possible by car, that too was out of the question.  So, we found a tour to some of the surrounding islands to see a large penguin colony on Isla Magdelena.

Guarding the next while the partner goes fishing. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

When buying our ticket for the trip that afternoon, we passed by a group of 20 somethings who had all been drinking.  As we passed by, they started cat calling to Zoe and Linda.  It was obvious that they didn’t think that we spoke Spanish.  A couple of comments were exceptionally rude so I turned around and shouted out, “Hueón, por favor”, “Dude, come on” in a tone you would use when a friend has started going over the edge with rude comments and needs to be shut up.  These guys fell over and started apologizing immediately.  it was quite funny to watch.  They got called out unexpectedly and had no comeback.

Penguins in their nests. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Wednesday, the trip on the water was nice.  The weather started out a little cool and overcast but soon changed to clear sunny skies.  Once we reached Isla Magdelena, we had a couple of hours to walk around.  The penguin colony was smaller than what I saw in Punto Tombo, Argentina.  But, so was the island, so the penguins were grouped closer together making the site much more interesting.  We saw 3 penguins crossing the island at roughly the same pace as us.  While the others were concerned with their daily activities, these 3 looked like they were out cruising the colony.  A couple of other penguins tried to join them, but these guys were too cool for school and couldn’t have been bothered by these other seemingly “uncool” penguins.

Just off the lighthouse. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

In the evening, I said goodbye to Zoe and Linda and headed back to Puerto Natales where I stayed for a couple of days hanging out.  I didn’t make it back to the Torres park as I thought I might.  So, I prepared for my next trip heading north through Patagonia, first a little on the Argentinean side before popping back over to Chile.

Originally Published February 16, 2008

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Taking It Slow Down South is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

The approach to Torres Del Paine Park on a cloudy day. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I slept in Friday morning needing some extra hours after the boat trip where I slept OK, but not great.  Arris had a car he rented in Argentina and Eva, Linda, Zoe and I decided to go with him to drive through the Torres Del Paine park.  We headed out of Puerto Natales in the afternoon taking our time getting to the park allowing time for picture taking of the countryside, mountains and lakes we found along the way.

We found lodging in a nice cabaña just outside the park for the night.  We sat on the deck with wine, cheese, meats, bread and watched the sun set.  The owners had a couple of labs that played with us.  We had a direct view of the Torres mountains in front of us and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.

View of the Park from our cabin. Not bad, huh? Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We got up in the morning and headed to the park after breakfast.  We drove through on the west side of the park near the Grey Glacier.  Our first priority was to find lodging for the night given that it’s high season here and the pickin’s were slim.  Even though driving around was beautiful we wasted a lot of time not hiking as we continued from one place to another unsuccessful in our quest.  We found one lodge on a lake with a beautiful view of the Torres.  We had a quick bottle of champagne to toast the day.  Knowing that we might not find anything at all, I convinced the group to stop at a couple of places where we could enjoy the park.  We found a waterfall and a 2K trail leading off to a lake right at the middle of the two mountain peaks.

Salto Grande (Big Falls). Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

At the end of the day we found a hostel just inside the park to stay for the night with a restaurant.  The owner was gruff and unfriendly, but it had beds, showers and food.  We had a relaxing glass of wine in the lobby sitting area and then had a nice steak dinner.  The conversation revolved around sex and only after coffee, did we realize that our voices carried all the way down the hall into each room.  Luckily, most of the people staying were Chilean and we could only hope that no one understood English.  We headed back to the sitting area to finish off our wine and I promptly spilled my glass all over the carpet.  I asked the owner for a towel to clean it up, he barked at me and so the wine stayed.  When heading off to bed, we realized that one of the toilets in the men’s room was broken leaving only one.  The next day, Arris said that he thought the second went out of commission after he used it.  After a quick breakfast the next morning, we got out of the hostel quickly.  You know, we didn’t want to overstay our welcome after we were such perfect guests.

Our car for the trip. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

We headed to the Grey Glacier to take the boat out.  I wasn’t feeling well so I stayed behind with Eva.  We found a shaded place on a black sandy beach next to the river where we read during the afternoon while the others went on the boat.  We got in the car at the end of the day to head back to Puerto Natales.  About 8K from the hotel, the car broke down. When we got out of the car, we saw our gas leaking onto the side of the road.  There are few services within the park so we were on our own.  Luckily, a van carrying two Brazilian families drove by.  They took Zoe and I to their hotel, next door to where we rented our cabaña a couple of nights earlier.

Close up of the Mountains. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Sunday night in Chile, or anywhere in South America, is not the ideal time to find anything open, even a 24 hour tow truck.  The hotel had no service to refer us to so I called the hostel owner where I stayed in Puerto Natales, Omar.  So, while I was on the phone with him, he got on his cell and called a company to pick us up.  It was about 9PM now, and he said they would arrive in about an hour and a half.

Hard to see, but those are guanacos, like llamas, in the distance. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

With time to kill, Zoe and I decided to have a “little” dinner.  We were in a 4 star hotel complete with a great restaurant with a spectacular view of the Torres.  We were seated by the window where we could enjoy the view and dine on a gourmet meal.  We wondered how our friends were fairing as we ordered a beer.  We consoled our guilt with the knowledge that they had plenty of food and water.  What could we do really?  So, we toasted our friends and their hardiness.  We started with a trip to the gourmet salad bar.  We were then served a rich, cream of mushroom soup and then dined on steak and pastel de choclo with king crab.  We finished off the meal with a trip to the dessert bar and a coffee.  We were ready for a long night ahead after our “little” dinner.  By 11:30, help had not arrived and we were worried that help wasn’t coming.  As we worked with the hotel staff on plans B and C, a 4×4 approached and Eva jumped out of the truck.  The tow truck found our friends first and were just now coming to pick us up.  We arrived in Puerto Natales around 3AM and found lodging at Casa Anita, a hostel where my friends had stayed previously.

Great times at the park. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

The Torres were impressive and while I would’ve liked to have hiked more, I enjoyed just hanging out seeing the park and being with my friends.  Maybe I can squeeze in another day or two before I head out of the region.

Originally Published February 14, 2008

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Driving Through Torres Del Paine is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Some of the people I met. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

It’s been a while since my last “It’s The People That You Meet” piece (August).  And, given that I’ve just started a 5 week sojourn, I figured it was time to complete the update.  So, here goes.  Here are all (or really, most) of the people I’ve met along the way for better or worse.

• Kimbo – OK. So I knew you WAY before this trip.  But, it was good to travel around Arg and Uruguay with you. See you soon (promise) in New Zealand.
• Wine owners and servers in Maipu Valley of Mendoza, Argentina.  Great time and thanks for the pours.
• Señora Coca – Bike rental owner offering rentals for half the price of the others.  Thanks for the service, but next time remember, if you’re going to offer a deal to someone, you’ve got to follow through.  No more bait and switches.
• Pepe, Noemi and Andres: Ya saben cuan pienso en vosotros.  Fue un viaje inolvidable.  Nos vemos de nuevo seguramente – espero que sea pronto.
• Car rental owner guy in Salta: Gracias por tu atencion y consejos.  Tuvimos un viaje increible en tu Volkswagen.
• People of Tilcara: Es probable que no supieron que habia extranjeros locos asistiendo su fiesta en la plaza.  Pero sepan que disfrutamos mucho y gracias por compartir un poco de su cultura con nosotros.
• Restaurant owner and daughter in Iruya:  Disfrutamos mucho la cena y especialmente el entretencion de la hija.
• •Little kid in San Antonio: Pibe, gracias por tu ayuda cuando mi amigo tuvo la puna y tuvimos que comprar la medicena.  Eres muy amable. Suerte!
• Hostel owner in Campo Quijano:  Gracias por la oferta de la casa.  Esa fue perfecta para nuestra ultima noche juntos.
• Woman sitting behind me on the bus from Salta to BA: Lo siento mucho por el oler de los pies.  Fue una bestia por mi culpa.  No lo haré de nuevo.
• Bus attendant from Salta to BA: Lo siento por el oler de los pies.  Ojala el oler desaparaciera rapidamente.
• Parents and family of Andres: Que gusto conocerles.  Espero que nos reunamos pronto.  Mucha suerte en el futuro.  Cuiden muy bien a Andres.  Lo necesita.  Pero ya saben, no?
• Agustina and staff of Reynolds and Grace, apt owner: Gracias por la ayuda en encontrar un departamento
• ECELA profs and staff – Marisa, Elizabeth, Pili, Gabriel, Romina y los demas.  Me preparon muy bien para el DELE.  Disfruté mucho mi tiempo con Uds.  Nos vemos pronto de nuevo cuando regreso a BsAs.  Les aviso de los resultados tan pronto como posible.
• The owners and staff of the bakery downstairs from me: Me gustó mucho todo de lo que hicieron.  Bueno, tardaron el bajo de peso, pero fue delicioso.
• Hernan – Gato!  Gracias por todo tu ayuda en el gimnasio.  Me ayudaste mucho y nos vemos pronto de nuevo en BsAs.
• Diego, Bruno, Carmen, Lucia, Paolo y Rafa (los espaňoles de Iguazu y Ushuaia).  Que gusto conocerles y viajar con vosotros en los dos lugares.  Nos vemos pronto en Espaňa y allí nos juntamos para celebrar las culturas de Espaňa en todas partes
• Italian restaurant owners in Colonia, Uruguay – Gracias por ser tan amigables.  Disfrutamos la rica almuerza que nos preparamos.  Que les vaya bien.
• Tango dancers in La Boca: Muy bien hecho.  Deseo que pudiera bailar como Uds.  Pero, nunca va a pasar.  Asi que, tengo que aprovechar sus talentos.
• Gustavo – Hermano, such a good time hanging out with you in Ushuaia and in Santiago.  Good luck with the law studies and when you’re an important Brazilian judge, let me know.  Next time I visit Brazil, I’ll stop by Campinas for more cachaça and caipirinhas.
• Dario: Nice traveling with you. Thanks for the stories on your travels.  You are hard core even if you don’t think so.  Take care of your body so you’re not in a wheelchair by the time you’re 40.  If I make it to Italy, I’ll swing by Bologna for a visit.  All the best.
• Eileen – Suerte con tu vida en Chile.  No creo que vamos a poder juntarnos de nuevo en Santiago.  Pero, un gusto y estamos en contacto.
• Ozzie Rob – Good hanging out with you in Ushuaia. Good luck with the fishing and maybe I’ll see you along the way int he Andes.
• Kiwi couple – Good luck with the travel.  But, seriously, lay off the attitude.
• Natalie – Chica, good luck with the travel and stay safe – and play safe.
• Andrea – Nice to meet you even though we didn’t hang out much.
• Staff at Los Lupinos in Ushuaia: Disfrutamos mucho todo. Puede ser que disfrutamos mas de lo que debimos.  Pero, no importa. Fue excelente todo.
• Pablo – Che, gracias por el vino. Suerte con la vida nueva en Ushuaia.  Espero que todo vaya bien para vos y tu familia allí.
• Ozzie father and son traveling in Ushuaia from boat – Thanks for the book recommendations.  Have a great trip together.
• Argentines on Ushuaia boat trip – Gracias por hacerme reir.  Disfruté el viaje con Uds.
• Clare, Laura and Mary Lou – Thanks for renting the car with me to travel around the Puerto Madryn area.  Enjoyed the schooling on proper English tea.  And, I’m sure all the royalty take doggie bags with the leftovers just as we did.
• Alejandro: Hueón, gracias por entrenarme.  Suerte con la competencia en Brasil.  Espero que ganes.
• Pablo: Gracias por las clases de fotografia.  Aprendi nuevos trucos para mejorar mi nivel de sacar fotos. Te aviso si me sale o no.  Que te vaya bien.
• The Navimag bunch – David, Zoe, Linda, Arris, Eva, Peter, Sjoerd and Daphne.  One of the best travel groups so far on my travels.  Really enjoyed hanging out on the boat, drinking wine, swapping stories, playing Scrabble and, of course, Bingo.  It wouldn’t have been the same without you guys.  All the best.  hopefully we will meet up again later on my journey.
• Christian – Didn’t get a lot of time to talk, but good luck on the travel.
• “The Oracle” from the Navimag cruise- Dude, you may lead an interesting life.  But, honestly, take a breath when telling us how fabulous you are.  We get it – you know everything about everything.
• Mother-daughter team from Navimag.  Really nice meeting you and hope the rest of your travels through Chile are great.  Mom, good luck with the Spanish lessons back in Valdivia.
• Rolf – I love that you still travel the way you do in your 60s.  Have a great trip.  All the best.
• Omar – Hueón, gracias por todo especialmente por salvarnos en el parque.  Fue un placer y suerte en el futuro con todo.
• Mechanics from Puerto Natales – Gracias por buscarnos el domingo por la madrugada.  Lo agradecemos mucho.
• Anita – Gracias por permitirnos entrar la casa a las 3:30 de la mañana.  Fue un dia largo y dificil. Pero, por lo menos, pudieramos dormir tranquilmente despues de todo.
• Coffee bar guy in Puerto Natales – Thanks for a good cup of coffee.
• Brazilians who picked us up in Torres del Paine park – Muito obrigado.  Thanks for the help and getting us to a place where we could call for help.
• Staff at Hotel Rio Serrano – Gracias por tu ayuda.  Por fin, llegó, no?  Espero que les vaya bien.
• Owner of Hosteria in Torres Del Paine Park: Hueón, ¡Cálmate! En serio.  Vas a sufrir un infarto.

Originally Published February 6, 2008

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It’s the People That You Meet 3 is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Navimag, our ship for the next 4 days. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I arrived in the city of Puerto Montt on Monday morning to begin my 5 week adventure through Chile (and, time permitting, a little of Bolivia).  I headed straight for the dock where I would leave on my cruise to check in with Navimag.  I handed in my backpack and had 4 hours to walk around and explore.  After a couple of quick errands, lunch and time to sit by the pier, I went to board the boat.  The cruise lasted 4 days and took us to the southern town of Puerto Natales passing through the islands and fjords of the Chilean Patagonia in southern Chile.

I met my cabinmates, Daphne and Sjoerd, a Dutch couple and Rolf, a German living in the US.  We headed out of the harbor around 5PM passing first by the island of Chiloé on our right and the continent on our right. It was a beautiful sunny day cooled off by the breeze created by the movement of our cargo ship.  Over the course of the afternoon and evening I started to meet the fellow passengers who all seemed to be great with interesting stories.  After dinner, we sat around chatting awaiting what was to be a spectacular sunset.  After a controversial game of Scrabble, I turned in around midnight.  Who knew there were so many different opinions on how one should play.

Leaving Puerto Montt. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Tuesday morning, I awoke and quickly showered, had breakfast and attended the daily briefing.  Having passed by Chiloé the day before, we were starting out in the southern part of the Corcovado Gulf heading into the Moraleda Channel.  By 4PM, we entered the Chacabuco Channel and by 7PM we headed towards the Pacific Ocean through the Anne Pink Bay.

The day was spent outside chatting and sharing stories with fellow passengers.  We had clear skies and beautiful sunshine but there was always a cool breeze to keep us from getting too warm.  With land on both sides, we were always in view of the spectacular mountains, some covered in dense tree and vegetation growth, others with rocky, barren peaks.  We had the occasional snow-capped peak or volcano, always on the continent side.  We remarked how wonderful it would be to take a quick dip in the water.  Of course, the extremely cold temperature and movement of the boat kept us firmly planted on deck.  As we turned toward the ocean, the wind picked up forcing us inside.  The wave activity picked up as well.  I thought I would be fine.  But, the combination of the waves along with too much sun, a little too much wine and a creamy carbonara sauce on my pasta at dinner meant I had to turn in early, take care of some bathroom business and then stay vertical on the bed the rest of the night.

Not a bad view, huh? Copyright CareerBreaksecrets.com

After a rough night at sea in the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Punishments) with minimal sleep, the boat calmed down as we reentered the calm waters of Mesier Channel.  The scenery changed yet was just as dramatic; it seemed to get better with each passing day.  The waters turned from a dark blue to a teal color, something I would’ve expected in the Caribbean rather than down off the southern coast of Chile.  There were more snow-capped peaks on the continental side than we had previously seen.  Around 2PM, we passed by an abandoned sugar ship.  It was sunk by its captain in the 1960s.  It carried a load of sugar and the captain tried to cash in the insurance only the boat never actually sank despite the 300m depth of the channel.  He somehow managed to find the one spot in the channel filled with rocks preventing his ability to sink the ship.

Beautiful views everywhere. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

In the afternoon, we made a stop to the small village of Puerto Eden to drop off supplies.  And when I say ‘we’, I mean the ship’s staff.  The small town sat on the shores off impressive snow-capped peaks. After the transfer of goods, we headed towards the largest glacier in South America and the 2nd largest in the world, Glacier Pio XI.  We made our approach starting around 7PM – with still plenty of sunlight.  Around 8:30 we neared the glacier and advanced to within a few hundred feet.  The glacier rose from the water about 20-30 feet (I’ll have to check to see if my estimate is correct).  Everyone was outside snapping photos and fighting for the front-row space.  But, in reality, everyone was well-behaved and courteous.  We slowly pulled away as the sun set with the sky and impressive shade of yellow and purple.  We got a nice shot of the group I had been hanging out with.  We were a motley crew from the US, Canada, Denmark, Holland and the UK.

Glacier Pio XI, the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

After dinner, we settled into the night’s farewell party on board.  Bingo was the game played by all.  One in our group, Eva, won a game and we cheered her on.  The best entertainment of the evening came from our friend Zoe who called Bingo too early and was forced to sing in front of the group.  Knowing Zoe was from New York, the keyboardist started playing Sinatra’s “New York, New York.”  Zoe decided to break out into “Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head” instead which brought down the house.  Only later did we find out how much of a showman she really is.  She confessed that she sang the wrong words on purpose.  But, she delivered the lyrics so convincingly that we were all fooled.

My posse on the boat. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

At 7:30AM on Thursday we entered Canal Sarmiento to start our final day on the water.  Of course, I slept through this entry having had my first full night of sleep on the boat.  We spent the day marveling at the sights, hanging out with the group and finishing whatever wine we had left.  We passed by the Torres Del Paine park and got our first view of the incredible ‘cuernos’ or horns of the mountain.  At 6PM we docked in Puerto Natales, said our goodbyes, sot of, and headed off to our hostels.

Entering Puerto Natales. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Our group from the boat met up for dinner around 8 and enjoyed one final dinner together with lots of food and, of course, wine.  As it turned out, the next day, we had another farewell lunch.  It was sort of the like the Cher farewell tour.  There was more than one.

Originally Published February 6, 2008

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Cruising Through the Patagonian Islands and Fjords is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Santiago at Dusk. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I arrived in Santiago on December 28 and stayed through January.  My plan was simple: take some time in the gym to continue on the weight loss path I had been on since September in Buenos Aires and take a photography course to improve my photography skills.  Further, I arrived to a small group of friends so I anticipated a great deal of socializing too.  Well, I did accomplish two of the three goals.  As it turned out, I started out my stay on a high note which rapidly fell but then recovered again at the end just before leaving.

New Years was a weird night.  I traveled with 5 friends from Santiago to Viña del Mar on the coast on the 31st.  The plan originally included renting a cabin or house in Viña and turned into a day/night trip with a return on the 1st in the morning.  I wasn’t thrilled about the prospect of partying all night and then catching a bus back to Santiago at 6 or 7 in the morning. But that was the plan and I was with friends so I readied myself to go with the flow.  The first sign of trouble came when we arrived to Viña on the 31st to find out that the first bus still available back to Santiago would be at 1PM on the 1st.  It was a disappointing realization but again, time to go with the flow.

We caught a local bus to the nearby town of Valparaiso to have lunch at the local market and spent the rest of the day walking around a bit.  We finally headed back to Viña around 6PM to get ready for the evening.  We went up one of the ocean-facing mountains to get a spot to watch the fireworks at midnight.

We found an historic, cobblestone street filled with people and we found a good spot still available to watch the fireworks.  We made a picnic, had a few drinks and watched the sunset.  Everyone in the street was very social and there was lots of singing, chanting and dancing.  At midnight, the fireworks started and were extremely impressive.  All along the coastline for probably 20 kilometers to the north and south of us fireworks went off and it was one of the best shows I’ve seen including those in Washington DC and New York.  We cracked the champagne and celebrated the new year.

Down the street a band from a restaurant started playing music.  That livened up an already festive crowd and we all started dancing in the street.  It was like a scene out of a movie. It was great.  Suddenly, the emotional fireworks began and the night took a turn for the worse.  One of the women with us has been flirting with a couple of guys during the evening.  Each believed that they should have been the one to hang with her from this point on.  Two fights in the street ensued between the two.  Just after the second melee, I got separated from my friends and stuck with the drama queen.  There are more details to the story not worth really telling here.  Unfortunately, this woman is the type to cause drama when none exists.  Having had too many of these people in my life, I have sworn them off and after this night, I just had to cut her out of my social circle.  I’ve learned it’s not worth trying to continue the relationship because the toxicity involved with this personality type never goes away.

We tried to find the club we had planned to go to spend the rest of the evening.  It was a 2 hour search (which started at 2AM) through a city built like San Francisco.  At 4AM after a high hill climb, we found the club but not the friends (I later found out they were indeed inside, we just didn’t see them).  Since the group was put off with the drama queen, they weren’t returning our calls and texts on her cell.  My happy-go-lucky demeanor was gone replaced by complete frustration.  So, we made our way back to the bus station and found a bus back to Santiago.  After playing the exorbitant price – I didn’t care, I just wanted to get back – we boarded and arrived at 6AM.  By 7, I was back home at my buddy, Jose Antonio, and away from all the drama.

Jose Antonio, owner of the house who I met through my school here last year, made a nice, simple lunch after I woke up from a short sleep.  I had almost no money on me, had been abandoned the night before and was emotionally spent.  I was incredibly appreciative of his hospitality and welcoming me back into his home for the month.  He could’ve served me dog food and I probably would’ve been just as grateful.  I immediately calmed with the knowledge that I was safe, had food and housing.

Over time, I worked things out with my friend Alejandra (not the drama queen in the group).  She’s been such a good friend over the past year and wasn’t the cause of the drama so it was easy to get back on good footing with her.  The rest of the crowd, I didn’t feel like making the effort so if there was a group activity, I participated.  If not, I didn’t reach out deciding to focus on my other activities.

In September, I started hardcore at the gym again from where I left off in March before leaving.  I had a good trainer and a good program and took off a lot of weight.  I took advantage of the time in Santiago, and in fact, planned to have a large block of time in Santiago to continue before getting on the travel road again.  So, I found a gym and a trainer and went 5 days a week again.  I had good success and still believe I can hit my long-term goal before leaving South America in June.

I signed up for a digital photography class which met on Fridays and Saturdays.  The class covered the basics of how to take a good picture, how to use a standard camera and how to use the photo editing software available on the market.  Our last class was a trip to a park in the mountains to spend the day taking pictures using all the new techniques we learned.  So, now I have some new tricks to play with and hopefully over time, improve the pics I’m taking.

The month passed quietly with the occasional visit by travelers that I met on previous trips passing through Santiago.  So, I got to play tour guide in Santiago.  It was always great to see familiar faces and swap travel stories.

The last weekend in Santiago ended my stay on a high. On Thursday the 31st, I met up with Michael, a student at my language institute that used me as a reference for him before he arrived.  We went out to meet finally and see how things were going. On Friday, I met up with my friends Ale and Paul who were moving the next day.  They fed me sushi and I helped them pack.  On Saturday afternoon, I had a date (finally!) and then went to a going away party that Ale and Paul threw for me.  We went out dancing afterward until about 3-4AM (early by local standards).  On Sunday, I met up with Bruno and Diego, two Spaniards I had met in Ushuaia and were passing through on their way back to Spain.  Diego told me that he’s planning a traditional Spanish BBQ at his family’s house when I arrive later this year.  I really enjoyed hanging out with these guys and look forward to seeing them again in Spain.

At 8PM, I boarded my bus to Puerto Montt in the south where I would catch my boat through the Patagonian islands even further south.  I was ready to leave.  Even though I had  good success in the photography course and at the gym, I didn’t have enough to do.  So, I’m looking forward to the more upbeat pace of backpacking again.

Originally Published February 3, 2008

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The Highs and Lows of Santiago is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures