Machu Picchu in Peru opens early. For those like me not hiking the Inca Trail an early morning bus at 5AM takes you up the steep mountain to the entrance. The ticket line seems long but it moved quickly. Entering the grounds was aided by the path, a necessary aide given the thick cover of fog that still hung in the air. When I first walked past this tiny stone house I thought I was walking into the heart of the old city. As the sun rose illuminating the fog in an eerie white glow, I began to realize that was not the case. I found a comfortable place to sit and watch nature’s morning show. As the sun rose, the fog slowly burned away gently allowing Machu Picchu to reveal itself to me. While I don’t have the proper equipment to truly capture this pre-dawn soupy ambience, I miraculously was able to get this Suh-Weet shot before all the fog was gone.

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Foggy Start at Machu Picchu is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

View from train on way to Aguascalientes. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Tomorrow is the 100th anniversary of when the world learned of the rediscovery of Machu Picchu by Hiram Bingham. Few discoveries have set alight the travel imaginations of the world like this one.

In 2007, I set off to discover Machu Picchu on my own. I had a bit of guilt about not hiking the Inca Trail. There were few travelers I met that hadn’t hiked it, planned on hiking it, or biding their time so they could hike it. I felt like a schlub of a traveler for planning to take the train from Cuzco.  But, after a tough time in Cuzco recovering from a stupid foot injury suffered in the Galapagos and almost not going, the shame melted away.

A train took me to Aguascalientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. And, a bus took me right to the National Park Entrance. My saving grace was that I hiked Wayna Picchu, the tall mountain behind Machu Picchu (it’s the one visible in the background of every iconic shot of Machu Picchu). It was challenging so I felt like aI got my hike in.

Foggy start to the day at Machu Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Problem is that by the time I got down, I was exhausted and the mobs of tourist buses arrived. So, I went back down to grab a shower before catching the train to go back to Cuzco.

So, in short, I did a fly-by of Machu Picchu which left me wanting more. So, if I get the chance to return, here’s how I will do it. Some of these are things I did right the first time and others are changes to avoid the same mistakes from the last time.

And no, I still don’t feel like I need to hike the trail.

My Tips and Advice for How to See Machu Picchu

Wayna Picchu is steep, so take your time...and lots of water. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

1. Plan to spend 2 days visiting Machu Picchu. There’s quite a bit to do and see inside Machu Picchu. But, the main reason I want to spend two days is I want more time to soak it all up. I want one day to hike Wayna Picchu and another to explore the main grounds.  Plus the sunrises…
2. Don’t miss the sunrise. The first buses leave around 5-5:30AM. On my first go-round, I was on bus number 5. Once I got up, the entire area was covered in a thick, ethereal fog. Watching it burn off letting Machu Picchu slowly reveal itself to me was one of my lingering memories from my entire trip. I’m not sure if there is fog every morning like when I went, but even if there isn’t, it’s a magical place to start the day.

The view of Machu Picchu from atop Waynapicchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

3. Hike Wayna Picchu the first day. Only 400 people are allowed on Waynu Picchu each day. So, you need to be there early to make sure you are one of the lucky few. The second part of the hike gets interesting, but once you’re up, the birds-eye view is spectacular. And, if there’s fog, you have a great seat for watching it burn off. Afterwards you may be a bit tired…another reason to stay for another day.

4. Just sit and take it all in, maybe take a book. I was too rushed my first time around. So the next time, I’m going to soak it in. I just want to find a spot, hang out and enjoy the day. I might take a book and read, then take a nap, then read some more.

5. Consider hiring a guide, or download an audio guide. I missed a lot of the history of the place and the detailed stories that a seasoned guide can give you. Frankly, the price to hire a guide was shockingly expensive. I don’t remember anymore how much. But, I didn’t want to spend the money. I’ve noticed there are quite a few audio guides that you can download and play while you’re there.  So, if I don’t have anyone to share the cost with, I might have my iPod loaded up so I can learn more about the site as I walk around.

Machu Picchu from the inside. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

The gratuitous shot of Machu Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

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Tips for Visiting Machu Picchu If You’re NOT Hiking the Inca Trail is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Crowds in the Plaza in Cuzco. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

To say my stay in Cusco was uninspired, would be an understatement.  The city itself is beautiful with the best central plaza I’ve seen so far in South America.  There are also some beautiful museums, ruins, and a decent nightlife.  However, I arrived during the busiest time of the year.  Add to that the fact that this is one of the most touristy places I’ve been in contrast with the pretty remote areas I’ve visited for weeks now, and well, I was completely unprepared to tackle Cusco and, frankly, couldn’t wait to leave. Had it not been for Machu Picchu, I would’ve left much earlier.

Incan Walls in Cuzco. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

During June, Cusco, the center of the Incan world, celebrates all month long.  The celebrations reach their crescendo on the last Sunday of the month at Inti Raymi, or Festival of the Sun.  Throughout the week I was here, there were large parades in the plaza and parties at night.  The energy was great.  And, although I knew nothing about the traditions and  costumes, I still enjoyed the parades.  But, I’ve never seen parades last so long.  And, there were no floats.  Each group had a procession of people on foot, singing and dancing. Some of the parades lasted 5-6 hours.  I’m convinced that everyone in Cusco has to be in at least procession.

Fireworks over Cuzco. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

The number of people was overwhelming. It was good to see that the locals came out to participate and that the parties weren’t total Gringofests.  But, the festivals also brought out every hawker you can imagine.  And, they were aggressive.  If I had a dollar for every finger puppet, shoe shine, postcard, painting or massage I was offered, I could afford to travel for the foreseeable future without touching my savings.  I’m told that Cusco is unique within Peru in this aspect.  And, I hope that’s true.  I snapped a few times at the vendors.  Most of the time, I just declined with a “No.” or “No gracias.”  But, a few times a very rude “Te dije NO” (I told you NO) came out.

My hostel experience was just OK too.  I wound up with basically a homestay.  For $10 a night, I got a private room, shard bathroom and breakfast which was always fresh rolls, jam, butter and cheese (typical of Peru).  The family though was great.  And, I am forever grateful to the owner, Carola, for escorting me to the doctor to take care of my toe.

I made it to a few museums.  My favorite was Qorikancha which only cost 6 soles, less than $2USD.  But, I also visited Museo del Sitio Qoricancha, Museo de Arte Religioso, Museo de Arte Precolombino, Museo Inka and Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporaneo.

Inti Raymi celebration in Cuzco. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

On Sunday, June 24th, the city held Inti Raymi.  This was touted to be THE thing to do all week.  Its significance is is honor the Incan god, Inti, mark the winter solstice and mark the new year.  It was held at one of the ruins sites closest to Cusco, Sacsayhuamán.  There were two levels of seats.  $80USD got you right up front.  Free got you a dusty place on the hills far away facing the ceremony.  We went up to the hills.  I really wish we had paid the 80 bucks.  Bill Gates, Cameron Diaz, Adrian Brody and Pamela Anderson were reportedly paid the $80.  At about 11AM, we walked 2 kilometers and ascended from the 3500 meters/11.500 level of Cusco.  I’m not sure how much higher we went, but I wouldn’t be surprised if we ascended another 100-150 meters/350-500 ft or more.  So, by the time we reached the ruins, we were ready to sit.

The ceremony started a little after 1PM and with everyone struggling to see, the plebeian section became a bit of a madhouse with people in the front standing blocking the views of those in the back.  Screams of “Sientense! (Sit down!) went unheeded.  Then a mini food fight started with those in the back throwing food and water at those in the front. But, those folks fought back and threw stuff back.  The crowd quieted down finally.  It made for good entertainment to watch, but the bottom line was that we couldn’t see the main event.  We finally crossed over to another hill and got a better view, but were too far away to see the details or follow the plot.  I didn’t love Inti Raymi.  The ceremony itself is impressive.  But, to truly appreciate it, you gotta pay to get the good seat.

The highlight of Cusco really was in reconnecting with a couple of travel buddies I’ve met along the way.  Matt from England is in Cusco studying to get his teaching certificate in TOEFL.  He too left his job to travel so we’ve really hit it off.  I also met up with Freya, an Ozzie I met in the Galapagos.  She was passing through for a few days on her way to Machu Picchu.

By Sunday night, I had reached my limit and was totally frustrated, totally disappointed and totally uninspired with Cusco and Peru.  I decided that I was going to leave for Lima and come back in the low season to see Machu Picchu.  I decided that Monday morning, I would go to the Star Peru airline office to change my ticket to leave on Tuesday.  Luckily, I woke up Monday morning refreshed, relaxed and determined to move forward with the original plan of going to Machu Picchu on Tuesday.  Mentally I was finally able to put my Cusco experience behind me.

On Tuesday, I boarded the train for Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu.  There’s not much there except markets, restaurants and hostels.  But, at least the vendors stayed confined to the markets and you can go to them IF you want to.  I bought my entry ticket into Machu Picchu (120 soles or just under $40USD.  I also bought my bus tickets for the next morning to get me up to the top ($24USD round trip).

¨The Hut¨ Covered in Mist at Sunrise at Machu Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Wednesday morning I woke up early and was on the bus at 5:30AM, on the 5th bus to go up that day.  After waiting briefly in line, we gained entry into the park.  The weather was a little cool and thick with fog – just like I’d imagine it to be.  I made it over to the ruins to wait for the fog to lift to reveal them.  The weather teased us for a couple of hours before the sun finally burned it away.  I headed over to the mountain, WaynaPicchu.  This is the tall, steep mountain behind the ruins that you see in many of the photos of the ruins.  Only 400 are allowed a day to climb it and I was determined not to miss it.  I was number 79 and entered at about 7:30AM.

Looking Down Toward Machu Picchu From Wayna Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

At first, the hike was fairly easy, not too terrible except for the altitude.  But, at the end, the path steepened significantly  and I really had to be careful I didn’t fall.  I got on top about 8:30 and got a front row seat to watch the last bit of the fog burn off the ruins.  It was easily one of the most spectacular sites I’ve ever seen.  I couldn’t believe that I almost missed out on this.

There is a reason why Machu Picchu is revered the world over.  In pictures and from on top of mountains, the ruins don’t look that big.  But, I walked around and realized that it’s all built on the side of a steep mountain, I was shocked and awed.

After about an hour on top, I started my way back down.  By the time I got back down, I was wiped.  I really wanted to get to a spot to sit and admire the ruins.  I got turned around at one part and ran into a dead-end.  My exhaustion got the better of me and I let out an, “Oh fuck!”  I turned around to go back the way I came, and when I did, I noticed a couple in the corner enjoying their lunch.  I apologized and let out laugh at the same time they did.  I finally got a couple more shots of the ruins and then at about 11AM, I made my way to the bus for the ride back down.

Entering Machu Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I was soaked in sweat so I went to my hostel to see if I could pay for a quick shower.  With the hostel sold out, all they had available was the shower the workers used and for 5 soles (about $1.50USD), it was all mine.  It was basic but the water was hot.  Although I put on the same clothes I wore on the mountain, I still felt 100% better.  After a 4.5 hour train ride back to Cusco, I headed back to my hostel to get some much needed sleep.

Without Machu Picchu, I think my time here would’ve been a waste.  If I knew then what I know now, I would’ve gotten out of Cusco much sooner, missed Inti Raymi and headed to other parts of Peru that others I know really enjoyed.  Machu Picchu was worth the trip.  I wish I had more time to explore around the ruins. One more day would’ve been perfect.  It certainly would’ve been more fulfilling that Cusco.  But c’est la vie, right?  I’m now off to Lima.

Classic Shot of Machu Picchu. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Originally Published, June 28, 2007

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From Uninspired to Awed is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures

Ruins of Tulipe Outside of Quito. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

Well, after having been in Ecuador since the end of April, my time here has finally ended.  I’m a little sad to be going.  The country treated me very well.  And, unlike Argentina and Chile, I am probably not returning so this really is goodbye.

The toe saga continued.  It wasn’t looking very good and was a bit swollen.  Plus, I was exhausted from my Galapagos trip.  So, by the time I got to my hotel in Guayaquil, I just chilled in the room.  I resolved myself to finding a doc in Cuzco just to make sure everything was OK, get the toe cleaned up so I can be ready to go hiking around Machu Picchu.

Quito Cityscape. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

I took a quick nap which helped, but I was still worn out.  It was Sunday, Father’s Day, and my parents called the hotel.  It was great talking to them.  With my crazy travel schedule in June, I haven’t had a chance to really keep up with them weekly like I did at the beginning.  But, I got to wish dad a happy father’s day and get the update from back home.

On Monday afternoon, I headed to the airport to catch my flight to Lima.  When I arrived in Lima and cleared customs, it was about 8PM.  I wasn’t quite prepared for the madhouse I found at the airport.  There were people everywhere and taxistas hitting me up every 5 seconds.  I tried to find a travel agency at the airport to help me plan my trip but everything was closed at this point.  I did find a counter open for Star Peru airlines so I could at least buy my ticket to Cuzco for the next day.

I found a taxi and headed off to my hostel.  I had a beer, a shower and headed off to bed.  I flew early to Cuzco and arrived around 10:30AM.  I got a cab to my hostel and was joined in the cab by an agent trying to sell me all kinds of packages.  And, they tried to get me to go to a different hostel.  But, I held firm and was glad I did.

Plaza de Armas in Cuzco Peru. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

My hostel is a bit far from the center of Cuzco.  The hostel is really more like a homestay.  I was greeted by the owner, Carola.  And, she served me a cup of coca tea which was quite tasty and is said to be good for dealing with the altitude – Cuzco sits at over 3500m/11,600 ft.  And, after a week at sea level in the Galapagos, I felt it.  I told Carola I needed help with two things – laundry (everything I owned had a 2 day musty ocean water scent) and a doctor.  We first went to the lavanderia.  And then, Carola took me to the local clinic.

I was seen immediately by a trauma specialist. The experience was quite impressive actually.  He cleaned up the toe, gave me a script for and antibiotic and an anti-inflammatory and I was on my way.  His name was Dr. Bueno.  So, how could I go wrong?  For the consult and drugs, I was charged 84 soles or about $26USD.  He told me to stay off my foot for a couple of days, I wouldn’t lose the nail and all was good with the world again. What really impressed me was that Carola stayed with me the entire time.  Nice service!  And, to think I’m only paying $10 a day for lodging and breakfast.  I had a check up on Wednesday which went well.  And, I’ll have one more on Friday.

Hill Outside of Cuzco Peru. Copyright CareerBreakSecrets.com

So, with having been laid up for a couple of days unable to see much of Cuzco, I’m having to replan my two weeks here.  I’ll have to cut out everything else I was planning. That means no Nazca lines and no sandboarding on the dunes.  But, with the solstice in June, Cuzco has a month-long festival and Sunday, the 24th, is supposed to be the big day.  I’ll go to Machu Picchu next Tuesday/Wednesday.  And, then head back to Lima after that before going out to Brazil on the 1st.

Today I’m finally going out to see Cuzco a bit.  I’m meeting up with my friend Matt who I met on my biking tour in Ecuador. And, my friend, Freya, from the Galapagos should be arriving soon.  So, I’ll have some folks to hang out with while in Cuzco.  OK, off to explore.

Originally Published June 21, 2007

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Stumped in Cusco is a post from: Career Break Secrets: Travel show, independent travel blog and advice for career breaks and around the world travel adventures